Paint can breathe new life into any piece of furniture, transforming everyday objects into a distinctive presence.
But before you get started on your furniture project, there are some essential steps you need to follow to ensure a flawless finish that will stand the test of time. In this 6 step guide, we'll walk you through the process of painting wooden furniture like a professional decorator, from selecting the right materials to achieving that perfect final coat.
Whether you're working on painted dining chairs or a modern coffee table, this expert guide will walk you through exactly how to paint wooden furniture and achieve stunning results.
1. Choose The Right Paint Finish
The type of wood — whether natural like pine or manufactured like MDF — is less important than choosing a paint that works well with your material. Selecting the right paint is essential to avoid damaging your furniture.
With paint companies, such as Little Greene or Farrow & Ball, you would expect to see different paint finishes for the same colour. It might look like a bit of jargon at first, but luckily, for wooden surfaces, you should always use the same finish — eggshell.
Eggshell finishes are somewhere between matt and mid-sheen finishes, and it does look like the surface of an eggshell (the clue's in the name). It gives a beautifully classic look to woodwork.
Pictured: Our Larissa oak coffee table painted in Incarnadine
Warning: Avoid Oil-Based Paints At All Costs — Here's Why
On custom pieces, we often get asked if we can use oil-based paints. Our craftsmen simply refuse. Instead, we use the water-based version, here's why:
- Dries quicker
- Paint brushes are easy to clean (if you don't clean oil-based paint off correctly, you'll ruin your brushes)
- No odour
- Hides imperfections better, due to a more subtle sheen
- Looks more natural
- Low levels of VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds, simply put: chemicals)
- They don't yellow over time like oil-based paints do
- They're better quality!
- More sustainable
An old school decorator will insist that oil-based paints are better, but the reality is, as water-based paints have improved in quality over time to offer an equally good finish, they come without the pain oil-based paints do and are more sustainable.
Do I Need to Prime Wood Before Painting?
It is absolutely essential that you prime wood before painting as wood is a porous material. What this means is that without primer, paint soaks into the porous surface, weakening the material and requiring more coats to get the desired colour — costing you valuable time and money!
If you're using a paint from a prestigious paint company such as Farrow & Ball, they'll typically offer their own branded Primers & Undercoats at a premium price. We'll be honest — we don't think it's worth the extra cash. Primers and undercoats are supposed to be workhorses that get the job done — so choose one that's great value and offers a smooth finish. You can find some great primers and undercoats at B&Q and Dulux.
Pictured: Our Cheshire oak round table painted in Pointing
What Colour Primer Should You Use?
We recommend skipping the hassle of trying to purchase a primer that's the same colour as the paint, it doesn't make much difference. When it comes to primers, you want to use a white undercoat for neutral and light colours and grey for darker tones.
2. Save Yourself Time and Stress: Remove The Hardware
This might seem obvious, but we see so many people make this same time-lengthening mistake when upcycling their furniture. If you skip this step, you make the process of painting your furniture much more difficult and stressful than it needs to be — you'll want to abandon your project!
Your first step in the preparation stage is to remove any handles, knobs, and any other type of hardware or element that you don't want to get paint on using an Allen key or screwdriver. Make sure you put your hardware into a container so you don't lose them.
If your piece of furniture has doors or shelves — ideally you want to remove those too and set them to one side as this makes the painting process easier and ensures you get a quality, consistent finish.
If you are unable to take the hardware off, masking tape is a good solution, and any parts that you do accidentally get paint on can easily be etched off using a single-edge razor at the end.
Pictured: Our handmade Padstow bar stool and Eton butcher's block painted in Hague Blue
3. Prepare Your Space Accordingly — Don't Ruin Your Home
When painting your wooden furniture, you'll need to prepare a clear space to work in. This ensures you mitigate against the risk of getting paint on your other things as paint can be quite tricky to remove!
Paint with confidence and avoid stains by laying down Plastic Dusting Sheets, a pack of 3 sheets is more than enough.
Ideally, you want to be working in a space with little disturbance, such as a garage, so no one knocks into your furniture whilst it's drying or kicks up dust which can stick to the paint.
4. Don't Skip This Step: Sand The Surfaces — Or Risk A Subpar Finish
Sanding down the surface before painting is absolutely non-negotiable. There are no shortcuts if you want an even, quality finish—and trust us, the effort is worth it. Sanding is critical because it helps the primer and paint adhere better to the surface. As a bonus, it smooths out the surface and removes any imperfections or debris.
If needed, start with sugar soap, it's a mild, multi-talented cleaning detergent that's ideal for cleaning paintwork to improve adhesion by removing the build-up of dirt and grease, leaving behind a surface ready for priming and painting. Use a kitchen scrubber to clean the surface and leave to dry and sand.
If there's a lot of paint to remove, start with a medium sandpaper with a 60-100 grit. Follow this up with a finer sandpaper in the range of 180-220 grit.
If the paint is difficult to sand, then use a paint stripper and/or wire wool to remove.
You want to sand down to the point that the previous finish is completely removed, it's important to ensure you get no stains on the surface while it's exposed, as such stains left by liquids can seep through the paint and ruin your finish. Pay special attention to any intricate details or hard-to-reach areas, as these are often overlooked but can make a significant difference in the final result. Once you've finished sanding, use a vacuum cleaner and tack cloth to remove all the dust.
Pictured: Wainhouse oak breakfast bar painted in Pointing
5. Apply Your Primer
Once you've completed all of your preparation steps, it's time to apply your undercoat. Usually one coat of primer is enough before you can start painting. Once applied, leave it to dry and lightly sand the primer with a 240 grit piece of sandpaper and use a dusting brush or damp cloth to remove any dust before proceeding onto the next step — painting.
6. Paint Your Wooden Furniture
Once you have applied and sanded your undercoat, it's now time to do the main step — painting your furniture. We recommend using a brush, but if you're painting a large piece with flat surfaces, such as a bookcase, then a roller can speed things up, then go over with a brush to smooth out the paint and get to any hard-to-reach areas. The amount of coats you apply will depend on the colour you have chosen, for example, with reds, oranges and yellows, expect to apply 4, 5 or maybe even 6 coats! Darker hues and neutrals typically only need 2-3 coats for full coverage.
You Must Do This Extra Step If You're Using A Chalk Or Milk Paint
Chalk and milk paint is far less durable than an eggshell paint — so you need to protect your paint job using a varnish or wax.
Wax or Varnish — What You Didn't Know
Both options will protect your finish up to a certain degree. But here's something that most people don't know and how you can make a better decision for yourself: Varnishes are hard-wearing, waxes are not. Wax isn't heat resistant, so it's important to not place hot items (such as food and hot beverages) directly onto a waxed surface.
People often think that varnishes are like lacquer — glossy, plastic-looking finishes that you typically see in commercial settings. And wax is often preferred because it's a matte finish. That's simply not the case. Oil Treatments, such as those offered by Osmo, are available in a matte or satin finish, and they go a long way to protect your furniture from moisture, chipping and heat! Best of all, they look incredibly natural, and don't need topping up as often as wax does, saving you time.
If You're Applying a Wax
Then use a brush or sponge and apply a coat over your furniture. Every couple of years, you'll need to apply an additional coat of wax. Once applied, use a clean, soft cloth to polish the wax and make it smooth.
If You're Applying a Varnish or Oil Treatment
Double check the instructions on the tin, as sometimes they vary slightly. We recommend using an Osmo Oil Treatment in clear matt or satin to get the job done. You'll need to apply a thin coat with a brush or cloth and leave the finish to dry overnight. The finish will be rough once dried, so use a fine grit sandpaper, we use 1200 grit on our furniture range, and voilà! The finish should be smooth to the touch.
How To Introduce Colour and Charm Into Your Home Without Having To Lift A Brush Yourself
You're obviously very interested in painted furniture. We get it, in our industry, there aren't many options when it comes to painted furniture — most companies offer your bog standard off-white shades or jet blacks. But what if we told you that introducing colour and charm into your home without you having to lift a finger yourself was as easy as ever with our painted furniture range, which offers a selection of 16 nature-inspired colours by Farrow & Ball that bring a new energy into your home.